24 January 2014

Dior Haute Couture S/S 2014 - Circular Saw

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Dior Haute Couture. Say is slowly - it makes me feel like I'm floating in a very warm liquid. It envelopes you, embraces you and makes you feel feminine. Anything that can do that is important in this world of hard lines.

The first thing that hits you when you're watching the show is the craftmanship. Or craftpersonship, if we're sticking to the power of the female. I was trying to find words to describe the work - contemporary cutouts or sophisticated tears came to mind.The cutwork on transparent oversized dresses was sublime - black, navy and white drapery sporting half/full moon cutouts. Then we saw mini dresses with the same cut out overskirts and capes, teamed with chains up the legs connected to the shoes - and the new couture essential - trainers (or a variation thereof). We're used to see the juxtaposition of elegant couture dresses and trainers on the catwalk now (Chanel) - these were concept - lace free low slipons covered in sparkly spikes.

The accessories were perfectly in tune with the feminine inspired collection - tiny bow necklaces in gold, peep toe lace up ankle boots. The blood red crimson lips (and nude face) were a clever contrast to the overriding theme of white, black and navy, with hair long and hanging down the back, almost unwashed looking.

Then came the florals, oversized sleeveless open dresses over minimalist black trousers. What astounded me were the amazing shapes created on the body and the sublime use of fabric - draped, box-cut billowy sleeves and a clever use of lines above and below derriere to accentuate the feminine rear.

Raf Simon's cites his inspiration for the collection as intimacy around couture and feminine intimacy, using a modern approach to cutwork with stunning embroidery. The setting was designed to mirror the collection and create intimacy. The classic CD break to the perfection of the clothes was apparent here, adding to their appeal. If they were perfect they would be boring. And this certainly wasn't.

Stand-out silhouette - the whiter than white cropped skater dress with the circular graphic motif.

Wow moment: the beautiful white ballgown showing off the rear view.

Coolest moment: the humble brief appearance by Raf. The genius.

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